stevem Messages: 4739 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
Senior Member
Go to this sites technical listing for the schematic.
Forget about the three prong cord for now.
The reverb needs the foot switch only to turn it off,fix the non reverb issue once you get normal output.
The main board also needs the two wires of the pilot lamp removed from the lamp, and be very very care full with the temp sense diode in the clip that is in between the two output transistors!!
This diode has phosphor bronze leads it seems, or may be the gold plating process just makes them brittle, but they are very prone to breaking off so watch it!
What I do once I pull the board is to wash off any heat sink grease from the diode and then apply black silicone sealer to the diode where the leads enter it, and to the board where they are landed.
This will let you man handle the board and do no harm to the diode, just note that when you do the final re- assy on the head that heat sink compound is reapplied to the diode and that the clip holds it good and tight!
I also write next to each output transistor which way the slip on connector goes before I pull them off.
You do not have to use a tantalum caps, or even electrolytic type caps, and non electrolytic types certainly sound better so it depends on how deep your pockets are!
If you do use electrolytic types they need to go back in the way they came out!
Note that the 5 watt dropping resistor for the pilot lamp gets very hot, so steer clear if the amp has been on for two or three minutes!
The factory mounting of this resistor so close to the board always burns it to one degree or another so I pull it up off the board as far as it will go with out breaking the leads off.