I inherited these bins from my uncle about 20 years ago and blew one of the horn drivers at our last rehearsal. The only identifying information on the drivers themselves is "KUSTOM 812" and "KUSTOM 813" (not sure why the 2 bins have different driver part numbers).
Can someone please recommend a suitable compression driver replacement here? I'm using these and a Crown amp for keyboards only.
I found an old ebay listing for these cabinets......looks to me like they are for PA but guess they could be used for keyboards. The one's I'm looking at also had tweeters attached below the horn. Looks like everything is 8 ohms and the frequency range is listed on the input plate. One of the other guys here probably can tell you exactly what it was.....Pleat has a remarkable knowledge of this stuff.
Doubt you will be able to find exact replacements but PRV Audio does make a good 8 ohm driver that they claim rivals the original JBL 2425J........80 watts and frequency 1.2hz-21khz.
I found an old ebay listing for these cabinets......looks to me like they are for PA but guess they could be used for keyboards. The one's I'm looking at also had tweeters attached below the horn. Looks like everything is 8 ohms and the frequency range is listed on the input plate. One of the other guys here probably can tell you exactly what it was.....Pleat has a remarkable knowledge of this stuff.
Doubt you will be able to find exact replacements but PRV Audio does make a good 8 ohm driver that they claim rivals the original JBL 2425J........80 watts and frequency 1.2hz-21khz.
Thanks for the reply. Yep, those are the ones (tweeters below the horns). I would have posted a picture but I apparently can't do that here yet. My Uncle used those bins in the 70s for his keyboard rig and from what he told me, they were made specifically for keyboards - who knows. I've been using them for that purpose for years and they do the job well. And yes, the specs are on the jack plate but I'm more worried about the new driver fitting into the present mounting bracket at this point.
pleat Messages: 1452 Registered: June 2004 Location: Belding, Mi
Senior Member
I'm pretty sure the cab has the Electro voice 1828 driver. I'm sure any re-cone service would have the parts to repair it. Best to send the complete driver and let them do the repair. The mid horn bell is the Electro Voice 8HD mid horn that starts at 800 HZ. You can download the all the specs from Electro Voice.
The back of the input panel of the cabinet has a cover over the Bi- amp input which diconects the internal passive cross over and is a direct connection to the horn driver. That is only used if you have an external electronic crossover that will divide the signals into Hi out and Lo out.
Kustom made two versions, the standard Pro 3W and the Pro 3W SRO which would have the EV premium speaker. The two piezo tweeters add some sizzle above the 3K range.
If you can find someone to repair the driver, I think Peavey has an XT22 or something like it.
I'm pretty sure the cab has the Electro voice 1828 driver. I'm sure any re-cone service would have the parts to repair it. Best to send the complete driver and let them do the repair. The mid horn bell is the Electro Voice 8HD mid horn that starts at 800 HZ. You can download the all the specs from Electro Voice.
The back of the input panel of the cabinet has a cover over the Bi- amp input which diconects the internal passive cross over and is a direct connection to the horn driver. That is only used if you have an external electronic crossover that will divide the signals into Hi out and Lo out.
Kustom made two versions, the standard Pro 3W and the Pro 3W SRO which would have the EV premium speaker. The two piezo tweeters add some sizzle above the 3K range.
If you can find someone to repair the driver, I think Peavey has an XT22 or something like it.
pleat
Thanks for that detailed post, I appreciate the info. Not that I've ever used them but I never realized the bi-amp jacks operated that way.
The driver isn't an 1828, as this one is round and has fins. I wasn't aware that these could even be repaired and would prefer to go that route. Any recommendations?
pleat Messages: 1452 Registered: June 2004 Location: Belding, Mi
Senior Member
The EV drivers do have fins. Not knowing what part of the country your in, I'd google a speaker re-coner or Speaker repair. The driver may also be and EV-1823 30 watt driver as well. The 812 & 813 may be a production code number. I've seen 402 codes as well on the finned drivers.
pleat
I googled some pics of the EV-1823, that looks much more like what I've got here. I've sent stuff to Orange Country in the past, gonna check around for closer places in the meantime...
If you are handy and know how to solder, you can replace the diaphragm yourself. That one is pretty simple to do, as there isn't any real alignment problems to fit the new one in.
The replacement will probably be less than $40 and would take maybe 1/2 hour to replace.
stevem Messages: 4742 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
Senior Member
X2 with Bill!
Simply speakers has the replacemt Diaphragms for 49 bucks, and if I recall right all you need for the job is a soldering iron and a 3/8" socket.
The question is why did it blow and the other one did not?
Are they driven off of seperate sided of a power amp, or off just one channel?
Is the crossover feed it failing?
Was the amp driving it pushed into heavy clipping?
This last one I posted about takes out far more high frequency drivers than just plain over powering them with too much clean wattage!
When pushing a heavy clipped square wave signal at high power into the driver ( or even a cone type driver ) you are asking it to make light speed movements across the full range of piston stroke that it can do, couple this with the high average power level and you've got a blown Diaphragm .
pleat Messages: 1452 Registered: June 2004 Location: Belding, Mi
Senior Member
I suggested sending in the complete driver for repair i Guess for two reasons. To make sure it the EV 1823 or the EV 1828 driver. I'm more sure it is the 1823 but with production and shipping schedules, it is possible that EV sent a different driver to insure production wasn't slowed down at Kustom.
The second reason, not having seen the actual blown voice coil, it could be severely burned or blown into pieces that without cleaning out the voice coil gap, there may be debris in the gap that needs to be cleaned out.
The Circuit Shop is 7887 Kraft Ave. Caledonia, MI. 49316 1-800-593-0869 Is just outside Grand Rapids, MI that I use for re-coning.