ZoukBoy Messages: 24 Registered: June 2009 Location: New Mexico
Junior Member
I have a line on buying one or the other of these and was trying to remember what I was told the difference was at the Konvention last June (Hello Brad. Hello Don. Hello Brian).
I remember that one difference between the A and the B was how the effects are switched, yes? Or is it that on one the effects are split between the two channels?
Thanks! I'm looking forward to the next Konvention!
pleat Messages: 1452 Registered: June 2004 Location: Belding, Mi
Senior Member
Hi Roger, The A4 series amps have all the effects dedicated to the left bright channel and requires a footswitch to activate the effects. You can short to ground all the wires at the footswitch jack to activate the effects and would have to use the front panel controls to turn on or off the effects. The right channel is a straight second channel with no effects.
The B4 series amps, split the effects, bright channel (left) has reverb/trem only and the normal channel(right) has harmonic clipper and selective boost and each side has a footswitch (1/4" stereo jack) to turn off the effects. With no footswitch the effects are active and the controls would have to be adjusted for the amount of effect.
The problem with the B series is, if you want reverb and distortion, each effect is only offered on different channels, so you need to use a Y cord into each channel. Basically if you want a lot of distortion you really need to turn down the clean channel that the reverb is on. If you leave the reverb channel at the same volume as the distortion channel,then you have the clean signal playing clean notes while the distortion channel is trying to play distortion notes, and the result is a mix of clean and distorted notes, and not that pleasing to the ear.
The A series is a better fit in some respects for the guitarist if you want all effects on one channel. I personally like the no frills kustoms straight two channel amps no effects and I prefer the normal channel for a fatter tone, and I use outboard processors for all my effects.
The B series amps have better chassis bracing and less hiss than the A series. One thing to note, the chassis depth on the A series is less so you can't swap a B series chassis into a B series case. A series uses 5 bolts to mount into the case, the B series use 4 bolts and the A series has a wood block under the power transistors to help support the chassis and the B series it's not required.
Don
stevem Messages: 4733 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
Senior Member
On the B model, I am not sure that the two channels CAN be used at the same time!
One channel may be out of phase with the other when both are runnig clean, or when the distorion/ boost channel is cut in.
You have to listen close to tell.
If you hear the tone changing to that same type of tone you hear out of a Strat in the middle pickup postion, than the two channle`s and or settings are out of phase!
BC Messages: 583 Registered: March 2000 Location: Kentucky
Senior Member
Hey Roger! Great to hear from you. The amp you looked at in Chanute was an A4. The thing to remember is that if there had not been problems with the "A" series, there never would have been a "B" series. I prefer the tone of the earlier amp but I have yet to see one that did not need some attention. As a matter of fact my gold A4 on stage in Chanute took a dive on Sat night. Considering it was 41 years old.......I have no complaints. Let us know how things turn out and keep in touch! BC
BC Messages: 583 Registered: March 2000 Location: Kentucky
Senior Member
Great looking guitar! Now that you have been bitten by the Kustom bug I will warn you......it is addictive. So you may as well be checking out some 100 series amps as well. The power will surprise you! Brad
C4ster Messages: 686 Registered: June 2001 Location: Mukwonago, WI (Milwaukee...
Senior Member
This is good place to drop in this request. I STILL need that elusive red K100. I am now resorting to begging. PLEEEEEEEASE!!!
Thanks for listening. (Reading)
Conrad
ZoukBoy Messages: 24 Registered: June 2009 Location: New Mexico
Junior Member
OK. I got my K200B-4 today and it's great. Head has some noise and some scratchy pots and some of the effects go POP when I click them on, but all in all it's very clean, with no cig burns. I think I will get it to a tech to go through and make sure all is right.
I have a question about the cabinet, though. It's a 2 x 15 and the jack surround plate says "Jensens," but there is no data plate. The owner advertised this as a bass rig, but I can find no evidence that the cab is meant for bass. Is there a way to tell if I open up the cab and inspect the speakers?
stevem Messages: 4733 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
Senior Member
To open up the cabinet once you get all the screws out you will need to use a 2x2 thru one of the front ports to pop it free as the black sealing strip compond that kustom uses turns into a tar like glue do to age.
For safty have another person catch the back of the cabinet when it does pop free as they are made with little in the way of eztra sepaker wire to the jack.
If the cabinet still has its original Jensen C15L model speakers you will see the big black and gold Jensen lable in the middle of the square magnet and you will also see stamped in white ink on the mounting lip of the drivers the model,C15L.
The model C15L is the top of the line of Jensen drivers and was used as the woffer in Hammod organ tone cabinets so they can handle bass fine.
If you find no Jensen lable, but the speakers still have a square magnet with no labling then you most likly have the CTS made drivers.
The CTS bass model driver had no cone ribs when you view the speaker thru the grill cloth.
Jc Messages: 217 Registered: March 2000 Location: N.W. Chicago Suburb
Senior Member
LOL - Did you get beat up a lot in School?
Correct, as Steven does so often, his blunt reply points out I should have said "Most" speakers have manufacturer's Codes. If you'd like those codes, I am sure Steven can post them for you or quite possibly that has already been done.
Steven it is quite obvious you have mad skills when it comes to these matters. But lighten up brother - jc
BC Messages: 583 Registered: March 2000 Location: Kentucky
Senior Member
I will agree that the Jensens will tolerate bass.....but they will distort and really get muddy at higher volume and they lack the bottom of the CTS. My first Kustom bass amp that I had in '71 had Jensens and they could not keep up with most guitar amps. I think they make great guitar 15s and only the Altec 418 sounds better. BC
ZoukBoy Messages: 24 Registered: June 2009 Location: New Mexico
Junior Member
Thanks! One more question: what size/type of screws should I use to put the original casters back on? It was shipped to me with those removed. I was thinking 1 1/4" sheet metal screws but I am not sure how thick the cabinet wall is.
stevem Messages: 4733 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
Senior Member
The original set up was that the casters where machine screwed down to a 1 1/2 x 3/16" thick steel bar than ran front to back all most all the way.
This bar was held down to the bottom of the cabinet with 10 or 12 wood screws 3/4" in lenght.
Does your amp still have the two steel bars? if not than 1/2" long wood screws would be the ones to use.