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New Member needs help! [message #14551] Sun, 17 October 2010 13:38 Go to next message
Gavindale is currently offline  Gavindale
Messages: 14
Registered: January 2010
Junior Member
Hello everyone. Smile

I have enjoyed this forum and now wish to post my gear with the hope of identification and the repair and use.

First is a Gold Sparkle PA speaker cab. It has a CTS badge on the back and has 4 1968 12" CTS speakers, with aluminum dust caps, and are in good condition. Do you have any idea as to the safe/correct numbers for OHM's and watt connection? I hope to use this with guitar amplifiers and do not wish to blow them up!

Next is a black T&R speaker cab with a CTS badge. It holds 3-15" speakers but upon opening it up I found 3 grey basket JBL D-131-F blown speakers. (I knew they were blown when purchased). I have had them reconed, installed, and ready to go. This cab has the chrome ports mounted on the outside of the grill cloth. This cab is very good condition. These are 16 ohm speakers and I was told that they are rated for 150 watts each but I still want to understand a safe amp watt output figure. I also understand that my wire connections put this at 5.33 ohm's. (approx)

Finally I come to the Amp itself. I think that this was not a original pairing with the 3-15" cab. Again we have black T&R.

The Back:
Model # 2-15K-4
Serial # 19313
Color - Black

One unmarked 1/4" female jack. Speaker output? I think a good bet but no Ohm or Watt specs.
One RCA (?) female jack. No marking. NO WIRE TO THE PCB BOARD.
One Switchcraft jack. 4 male pins. One flat male pin? It is broken at the base so this is just a guess on my part. Green plastic with a pot metal surround.

Front:

Plexiglass front.
"Kustom" and "by Ross,Inc." but no other information.
Left side, L to R then top to bottom.
Reverb, Speed, Volume, Bright, Trem-Vib, Intensity, Bass, Treble.
Right side. Same order.
Volume, Bright, Selective Boost, Harmonic Clipper, Bass, Treble, Boost Vol, Clipper Vol.
High/Low inputs per side
Jewel light between the inputs.
Strange switch design of On/Off/On. No standby switch. No tubes so none needed. Duh on my part. So why two "On" settings?

So my new friends, what the hell do I have? I did hook up the amp one time and it did power up but I quickly shut it down when the fear of damage to the amp (and myself!)crept up and grabbed me.

The 3-15" cab has been hooked up to my 1968 Bandmaster head and was slowly exposed to higher volume for break in purpose and when the head was cranking it was REALLY fun working the guitar with the open ports for pure natural sustain like no other I have ever experienced. The speakers seem to have a lot of low end and I used a Tele and lots of treble to get a good tone but I also understand the need for a break in period. I am looking forward to hearing this cab after the cones loosen up.

The Gold cab I have left alone in fear of overloading but am curious as to what comes out of it.

So my novel here is done! Now it's up to YOU! Where do I send this amp for COMPETENT repair/restoration? Is it worth it? Hook up both these cabs to one amp for tonal fun? Alas I am but a sea of ignorance.

Thank you. Very Happy



[Updated on: Sun, 17 October 2010 14:26]

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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14552 is a reply to message #14551] Sun, 17 October 2010 15:10 Go to previous messageGo to next message
pleat is currently offline  pleat
Messages: 1452
Registered: June 2004
Location: Belding, Mi
Senior Member
Welcome to the site.
Lot of questions. The gold PA cab uses four 8 ohm speakers wired in series/parallel combination for an 8 ohm total load. The speakers are around 25 watt ratage, but with the wiring configuration each speaker is taking 25% of what ever power is driving the column. I guess using caution is always the best thing.
Always interested in the gold, as so many white silver T&R turn a gold over the years. Easy way is to remove one of the metal glides on the bottom and see what the original color really is.

The 3x15 cab, if it has the chrome plastic ports, it's a safe bet that the logo badge will say Kustom Electronics and dates it towards the 1969 era. The Aluminum ports, used the Kustom By Ross name badge. Good call on re coning the speakers with 16 ohms. Kustom used 16 ohm speakers in all their 200 series cabs. So the cabinet is good to go with the kustom amp you have.

The model you have is a K200A-4 amp. The model #2-15K-4 is what the head and cabinet shipped from the factory. The 2-15K was a 2x15 speaker cabinet loaded with Altec speakers. the Dash 4 is the amp with all the effects that kustom offered. The amp head is what most people refer to the Fogerty head. Serial number puts in 1967.
Looking at the back panel. Lower right hand would be the Switchcraft 4 pin XLR jack for the footswitch. To get the effects to work, you need the footswitch to activate each effect, or wire all the pins to ground to turn on the effects.
The RCA jack is a tape record or monitor out jack and should have one blue wire connected to the power amp mid way from each end at the top. There should be two 1/4" speaker jacks towards the left side of the amp between the cord wraps. You mentioned One unmarked 1/4" female jack. is it somewhere else other than described? If so, someone added a jack for some reason.
The amp is 100 watts RMS driving a 4 ohm total load. Kustoms can operate above 4 ohms but do not try and go below 4 ohms. That will cause damage. You can run either of your Kustom cabinets, but don't run them both.
The two position on switch is a polarity reversing switch. Helps in grounding issues back in the day. We all recommend replacing the 2 wire AC cord with a grounded 3 wire Ac cord.

As far as sending the amp for repair? Does the amp work, or are you afraid to hook it up and try it? Not knowing where you are located, I can't answer that. Worth? Hard to say, not knowing what condition it is cosmetically, and electronically. If it's clean, everything works as it should, I'm sure there are some guys out there that would love to own it it any condition.
pleat

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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14554 is a reply to message #14551] Mon, 18 October 2010 07:42 Go to previous messageGo to next message
stevem is currently offline  stevem
Messages: 4733
Registered: June 2004
Location: NY
Senior Member
Hello and welcome to the place!
Wattage wise powering eitheir of your cabinets you are safe as you Bandmaster head puts out a normal 38 to 40 watts of normal RMS power.
If you have really good N.O.S output tubes (7581A not 6L6GC) that are tested under real operating voltages like I have my 68 Bandnaster fitted with you can squeak out some 49 watts of RMS power from the head which is a safe power level for your cabinets.
Your Bandmaster is loooking for a 4 ohm load so pairing that with the 3-15 cab is a better match for it.
Running the Fender at a 8 ohm load will eat up your output tubes twice as fast as when driving a 4 ohm load, it will also limit the heads wattage to 1/3 less output and effect the amps low end power some.

If you find that your K200 is in need of repair I can help you out with that if you do not mind shipping the head to the metro NY area.
PM me if the amp needs help.

[Updated on: Mon, 18 October 2010 07:44]

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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14560 is a reply to message #14554] Mon, 18 October 2010 13:46 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gavindale is currently offline  Gavindale
Messages: 14
Registered: January 2010
Junior Member
Hello plete and stephem. Thank you for the welcome and the great information. Last evening I read plete's reply and went about answering some of the questions brought up.
Yes the 3-15" cab has the "Kustom Electronics" badge. The overall condition of the cab is 9.2.

The gold cab is without question original gold sparkle. Yes it has seen LOTS of smoke and has some burns on it but the grill cloth is near mint and the T&R is ..... ohh let's say 8.5. And as stated the speakers are original and match and all work.

Now the "HEAD".
Cosmitecaly it is a good 9.0. Yes you are correct as to the 2 output jacks for speakers. I knew the other was there but overlooked with the power cord in the way. Sooooo....are both 4ohm?
I have a friend that makes industrial switches and said that he could make a pedal for it. He also suggested the choice of wiring all four pins to ground. I have other amps that have effects controlled by switch but work just fine left on and turned down by control knobs. Would this be true on this amp? A simple wire job and turned down controls seems to be the easiest choice but we will see. I still wonder about the flat metal piece that looks like it has broken off located on the top middle of the jack socket.

Then I read you question....have I turned it on? Well I bought this a guitar show, knew the speakers were an issue, had no idea of the correct outputs so the most I had done was hook it up to a 8ohm cab. I only remembered a snap when I turned it on, controls not working, and a hum that worried me that I would cause harm to it. So it has sat for .....3 years?...until I got the speakers done and the cab rebuilt. The gold cab came recently and again my ignorance kept me from trying it.

So off I went to the studio.

Plugged it in and hooked up the black cab. 1977 Telecaster with a full Gatton mods. Original Bardens, Vintique bridge, brass saddles, neck bolts, ect. plugged into the left side input.

I timidly hit the power switch and got a good sized snap. It has a hum but it quieted down a I started to adjust controls.


Shocked


Holy mother....as expected no effect function.....but tone, bright, and volume worked along with all 4 inputs.



Shocked



I worked the volume and tone.....started to increase all....and I was FLOORED! I own my share of amps but have never played a full Marshall stack but this amp with the 3-15" speakers was nothing like ANYTHING I have ever played. The Tele tone was better then any Fender or boutique amp I own. I got addicted to the volume. I know...break in speakers slowly. But......
I only use 3 pedals. Wah, compressor and distortion. And a outboard Fender Reverb unit. Set some levels again. My ears were screaming for help....
My floor is solid concrete but I swear the volume vibrated the floor! I couldn't stop. Then I grabbed my Goldtop LP and either clean or with full blown distortion it was the best tone I think I have ever pulled in 30 years with either guitar.

So I don't think this will be on the market anytime soon unless someone pulls big bucks out their pocket. Never say never!

Concerns. If any volume knob is left up beyond 0 then there is a disturbing snap everytime it is powered up. Some hum but nothing that concerned me. There was a short time when I started with the LP when the volume seemed to fluctuate when I first hit the power but it straightened out within..say...10 seconds? The effects are still a wide open question. I have not removed the back plate so I hope the reverb pan is still there.

So other than finding out about the effects and the snap issue....well......HOLY COW.

Awesome.

Thanks again. And I hope to check out my Bandmaster for optimum performance and may need some help along those lines also. The 7851A's sound like a interesting change for me to check into.
Not a Kustom though!


Very Happy







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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14561 is a reply to message #14551] Mon, 18 October 2010 16:02 Go to previous messageGo to next message
BC
Messages: 583
Registered: March 2000
Location: Kentucky
Senior Member
Welcome to the wonderful world of Kustom. I can answer a couple of your questions. 4 ohm is the total load you want to put on the amp. So one 3x15 cabinet is about it! On the effects....I have a post on here if you search about A-4 effects. This is essentially the same amp you have with a different name. You WILL have to ground the effects to make them work. I used a test lead with alligator clips and clipped to each pin one at a time and the other end to the chassis. This enabled me to determine which pin was associated with which effect. Have fun...and as our friend ET says.............Play Loud! BC Cool

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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14562 is a reply to message #14561] Mon, 18 October 2010 17:51 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gavindale is currently offline  Gavindale
Messages: 14
Registered: January 2010
Junior Member
OK. I understand the total 4 ohm load concept for the amp. So the 2 inputs. What are the output levels for each?

Should I be concerned about the "snap" when I power it up?

Is the reverb activated by the footswitch?

THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP MY NEW FRIENDS!
I am sorry for all the questions. The search function is just a" little" sensitive.

bc - ohh yeah........I learned just a little to quick about the volume! Burn Baby Burn! The 15"s are just TOO cool. And I will search for the function features because Kustom did use some "interesting" controls. But I learned real quick how effective the bass and treble are in the gain structure.

Are there any well known "issues" or common problems, outside of the 3 prong reaplacement, that I should look out for?

I know.......mooooore questions. I promise to use the search function.

Thanks again.

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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14564 is a reply to message #14562] Mon, 18 October 2010 21:50 Go to previous messageGo to next message
pleat is currently offline  pleat
Messages: 1452
Registered: June 2004
Location: Belding, Mi
Senior Member
To go back a little on your question of the broken tab in the XLR footswitch jack. It is actually the grounding tab on the inside of of the jack. Nothing to be concerned about.
The K200 series amps wants a total of 4 ohm load to run the 100 watts rms. Kustom 2x15 cabinets are 8 ohm total load per cabinet. Since Kustom offered your amp head with the option of running two 2x15 cabinets, so using two cabinets will give the amp the 4 ohm load and run max. output. It doesn't make any difference which output jack you use when running one cabinet. The speaker output jacks are wired in parallel.

The snapping or popping sound when you turn the amp on is normal.
All effects on your amp without the footswitch connected are in the off position. Shorting the pins to ground, either by a footswitch or as BC stated using a alligator clip and wire to ground to see which pin activates each effect.
On your amp, all effects operate on the left channel only. Right channel is a straight no effects channel.
Each channel has high and low inputs. These are inputs that will accent more treble or less treble, These are not High and Low gain inputs but alter the overall tone you want to get.

Kustom amps do handle stomp boxes and processor pedals really well.
As far as concerns other than replacing the power cord, a lot of people will suggest re capping the amp with new capacitors. Kustom did have a lot of problems with the white Mallory caps in the beginning. I guess it depends on where in the country your located, and if you find a good repair shop, you might want them to look over the amp just to make sure everything is still within spec.
pleat

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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14566 is a reply to message #14551] Tue, 19 October 2010 08:01 Go to previous messageGo to next message
stevem is currently offline  stevem
Messages: 4733
Registered: June 2004
Location: NY
Senior Member
I do not know that I would go for 7581A output tubes if you play a Tele, as these tend to be brite tubes when drivin hard.
They are a great tube for some what muddy Humbuckers, or if you mod the amps tone stack to kill off some top end.
But if the rest of the amp is in good shape ( main filters) you will have close to a 50 watt amp.

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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14574 is a reply to message #14566] Wed, 20 October 2010 13:13 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gavindale is currently offline  Gavindale
Messages: 14
Registered: January 2010
Junior Member
Alright. Now I'm getting my mind wrapped this.

For everyones consideration I am located in the Cleveland/Akron area in Ohio. My search for a compantant amp repair person has been......well......horrible.

Now plete I do need to get out with my alligator clips to check the effects but I am confused when you said that all of the effects are only on the right channel. My right side has the Harmonic Clipper, Boost, and something else. The left has the Reverb and Tremelo adjustments.

Honest. I have tried my best to use the forum search but it is a "litle" difficult. So can I have ALL the bells and whistles running at the same time? If I am plugged into the right side will the reverb and trem be available?

Thank you for the output answer. I have two modern 8 ohm cabs that could be a fun experiment.

I did use it again last night and there is deffinatly a volume fluctuation when first powered up but it stabilizes after 0:30 secs or so.

So the fun continues but I still have a feeling that a cap may be off and I would hate to have one blow and take the rest of the amp with it.

So thank you again.

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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14575 is a reply to message #14551] Wed, 20 October 2010 14:40 Go to previous messageGo to next message
stevem is currently offline  stevem
Messages: 4733
Registered: June 2004
Location: NY
Senior Member
The foot switch I belive is only needed to turn on the((ground out) the reverb and tremolo, the harmonic clipper and such from the other channel will only be on when you have them on.

To get everything on at the same time you need to Y your guitar into both channels, or use a small jumper to patch the the signal out of the second input jack of the channel you are plugged into and then feed/plug that short cord in the other channel.

I a cap goes full bad it will not harm the amp, it will eitheir sound like crap, or not work at all.

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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14576 is a reply to message #14574] Wed, 20 October 2010 17:49 Go to previous messageGo to next message
pleat is currently offline  pleat
Messages: 1452
Registered: June 2004
Location: Belding, Mi
Senior Member
No, I said all the effects work on the left channel. The K200A-4 amp head is what you really have, even though your model number is different. ALL effects work only on the left channel. Reverb, trem/vibrato, selective boost and harmonic clipper. Even though the selective boost and clipper are located on the far right side of the amp, they only work with the left channel. To get the effects to work, you will need to wire all the pins of the footswitch jack to ground, and then you will will have to turn off and on from the actual controls on the front of the amp.
The K200B series amps split the effects between both channels.
Reverb/trem, left channel only. Harmonic clipper and selective boost worked on the right channel only. Stevenm is correct that on the B series, you would need to use a Y cord into both channels to get all the effects to work.
They did change the B series, so the effects would work without a footswitch. Never made any sense to split the effects on the B series, and even Bud can't remember why they did.
I'm outside Grand Rapids, MI but there should be someone in your area that does amp repairs.
pleat

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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14577 is a reply to message #14575] Wed, 20 October 2010 18:32 Go to previous messageGo to next message
BC
Messages: 583
Registered: March 2000
Location: Kentucky
Senior Member
Steve, on my A-4 NOTHING works unless the pin is grounded. Clipper, boost, reverb and tremolo all require switching to make them work....That is not the case with my B-4 heads as they can be activated without a foot switch. BC Very Happy

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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14578 is a reply to message #14551] Thu, 21 October 2010 07:20 Go to previous messageGo to next message
stevem is currently offline  stevem
Messages: 4733
Registered: June 2004
Location: NY
Senior Member
Thanks for posting the clear up info gang!
I out of all the kustoms I have owned and or worked on, I have never had the A serise head in front of me.

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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14579 is a reply to message #14578] Thu, 21 October 2010 12:01 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gavindale is currently offline  Gavindale
Messages: 14
Registered: January 2010
Junior Member
Stevem...I see the number of your posts.....is what I have that rare/desirable? I got the impression from plete's first reply that my model is indeed collectible. Anybody have any guess of the number made of this amp? Would this be a 1959 Bassman in the Kustom world? Is it possible that a total idiot like myself bought from a guitar show a jewel unrecognized by the rest?

Hell.....if it ain't worth $20.00......then I still got one hell of a pant flapper with TONE!

Worked until 12:00 last night so I haven't had the chance to jumper the pins but I hope to today.

So to bc, plete, and stevem THANK YOU for the help and info. And to anybody at all that wants to jump in.

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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14580 is a reply to message #14551] Thu, 21 October 2010 12:14 Go to previous messageGo to next message
stevem is currently offline  stevem
Messages: 4733
Registered: June 2004
Location: NY
Senior Member
Collectible yes, rare somewhat since its a full loaded effects model.
If you do a search here for the serial number chart that has been put up by one of our boards great members you can get a idea of the total production number count of all the A serise amps.

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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14581 is a reply to message #14551] Thu, 21 October 2010 13:51 Go to previous messageGo to next message
chicagobill
Messages: 2005
Registered: April 2003
Senior Member
The A-series amps were made for a relatively short time period in the history of Kustom amps. They came between the original K200 Frank heads and the later extremely popular (and plentiful) K200-B series amps. The A-series amps introduced a full line of built-in switchable effects and also introduced the new power amp design that increased output power to a full 100 watts. The B-series amps corrected a few design problems (physical and electronic) and was produced in huge numbers.

The K200A-4 is what was the top of the line for guitar heads at that time. It had all of the bells and whistles. Because of this it also was one of the most expensive amps in the line as well. Back in the day, if you liked Kustom amps you would dream of owning one of these models. So to start with, if we can make a little assumption here, there were fewer A-4's sold than the other less expensive models.

There were a lot of bands that used and endorsed Kustom amps, the most popular was and still is Creedence Clearwater Revival. John Fogerty used a K200A-4 head on countless albums and tours. Because of this association, the K200A-4 model is usually sought after more than any other A-series amp.

All that being said, your amp may be worth more on the general market than a more common version, but still is not worth what a 59 Bassman is. If you bought it for $20, then you did real good.

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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14593 is a reply to message #14581] Fri, 22 October 2010 21:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gavindale is currently offline  Gavindale
Messages: 14
Registered: January 2010
Junior Member
OK everybody. The saga continues!

I made up the magic jumper and started on the right side pin.

Ahhh the trem/vibe comes on. Wonderfull. The controls all work with that.

Next pin lights up the Clipper and volume. I like the sound. I have heard a whole lot worse.

Next fires up the boost. Again I am in business!

The last. Ain't it always the last. When I grounded this pin, the HUMMM/HISSSSS disappears. The amp is quieter then a mouse fart. This is a good thing. The Reverb is nowhere to be heard. The turn of the knob makes a change in the sound, (very slight), but no Verb anywhere.

Well I am now invested into the investigation.

I removed the amp and surprise, surprise, the pan is gone along with cables of course. The board is there and awaiting a new pan. It is nice to pull a amp out of it's cab and see what 40+ years of time has done. A spider. Dust. All the pots and selector controls all need a good shot of Deoxit and movement. I did not see any other obvious destruction. Well the footswitch jack could be replaced with a new due to a looseness overall and horrible solder attempts.

But I am very happy everything else is working. A twist of a screw or two and a general cleaning and it should be fine. BUT I need a reverb pan. I am enjoying the fact that I can run this without my board if desired. Cool.

What's the next step? Any fast replacement out there? I have seen some posts and will look now to find answers but informational shortcuts are always appreciated.

As always, thank you all

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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14594 is a reply to message #14593] Fri, 22 October 2010 22:41 Go to previous messageGo to next message
pleat is currently offline  pleat
Messages: 1452
Registered: June 2004
Location: Belding, Mi
Senior Member
Glad that everything but the reverb is working. There are a lot of postings on the site as to what part number and where the best deal is. I've never written it down so you can have the fun of searching the posts. You mentioned that the footswitch jack is loose. You will see a small set screw on the inside of the amp, it just needs to be snugged. The ground connection between the amp and the footswitch pedal was made thru the casing of the jack and plug. Kustom sent out a dealer memo to make sure that set screw was tight in the casing of the jack.

pleat.

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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14597 is a reply to message #14594] Sat, 23 October 2010 11:09 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gavindale is currently offline  Gavindale
Messages: 14
Registered: January 2010
Junior Member
Thanks plete! I did find a number in one post for a 6 spring pan that was, if I understood correctly, the same but with the 2 additional springs. The poster felt is was a improvement over the original 4. I did a full web search and with the exception of Amplified Parts I could not find another dealer who sold a
a full line of Accutronic pans. And A-P did not list the part number I was looking for.
The posts I found may have been outdated as far as website dealers go. Anybody have any updated websites for pan purchase?

Thanks again.

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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14626 is a reply to message #14597] Mon, 25 October 2010 17:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gavindale is currently offline  Gavindale
Messages: 14
Registered: January 2010
Junior Member
Hello again. The fun never stops!
I did the search for reverb pan replacement and a number of variants on the Forum. I found the numbers but not a listing per se of pan to amp. I see on the Antique Electronics site 5 pans listed as NOS. So two look like no other I have seen. As I glanced at my insides I only see a small area for installation. I also never knew that some pans are installed with the open side up. I also see the correct number on the web, 2 spring and listed as "medium decay", but I am intrigued by the other post listing a positive result with a 6 spring option.
So after the search and the offerings and a possible upgrade and no idea as to mounting and installation and never even knowing the shear number of pans available and never knowing that there is a impedance specification.....

Well a simple search caused a whole lot more questions then answers.

Sorry to be a pain.

As I am sure that this issue has been addressed too many times....could someone point me in the general direction? Even if you have a topic link from here.....then as always ......my gratitude is genuine and plentiful ....unless you are looking for money!

Thank you. Rob

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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14627 is a reply to message #14626] Mon, 25 October 2010 17:38 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gavindale is currently offline  Gavindale
Messages: 14
Registered: January 2010
Junior Member
Is there a area with members posting photos of the insides of the different amp guts?

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Re: New Member needs help! [message #14632 is a reply to message #14551] Tue, 26 October 2010 07:43 Go to previous message
stevem is currently offline  stevem
Messages: 4733
Registered: June 2004
Location: NY
Senior Member
Here`s some help for you my Kustom friend.

First off unless you play church organ type stuff thru your amp and wnat it to sound like thats being heard from 100 miles away I would stay away from a 6 spring pan!

As you go up in spring count your notes played get washed out and blended togetheir and you loose high end responce(read muddy) which is why I like the metal face K150s and 250 so much for their tone control they have in the reverb circuit.

The Reverb tank you need is a type 4 serise with its case gorunded to the input and output connections.
its input and output resistance sould be 182 to 190 ohms, or a impeadnace of 2.25k to 2.5 k ohms and had a medium decay spec.

As you look thru the Accutronics pan specs also not that you need a pan with specs for its mounting postion as in horzontial, up side down and all that stuff.
Having the pans inputs and outputs does not matter much as long as the cords you hook it up with let you mount the pan with its output jack side as far away from the power transfomer as possible.

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