vivalaanalog Messages: 6 Registered: September 2011 Location: NE
Junior Member
I recently picked up a kasino club u100p pa head i believe, an old Wurlitzer orbit, and a Hammond draw bar organ with the Hammond synthesizer from a fellow for free off craigslist. I have got everything in working order except the kasino. I opened it up and noticed the leads to the power transformer were not connected to anything and couldn't find where they lead to. also the caps look unoriginal because they don't quite fit in the original sockets and it says it has reverb but i couldn't find a tank, is it digital? any help on this would be great, id love to get this up and running.
Welcome to the place. It sounds like someone has been "repairing" your amp before you got it. Well the price was right.
What wires from the transformer are disconnected? The primary wires are usually black and the secondary wires are usually purple or yellow or some other color.
The reverb is analog, and the tank is supposed to be mounted at the top of the chassis. It is suspended from two aluminum tubes that span across the top edges of the chassis. If you look for them, you will find the 4 screw mounts where the tubes were originally screwed in.
If you post a few photos of the chassis, we can all get a better idea what has been "repaired".
stevem Messages: 4733 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
Senior Member
It sounds like your amp is missing the bridge rectifier( a fancy name for 4 diodes pre wired) which is/was bolted down on the floor of the amp right next to the PT, which means you should see a un-ocuiped hole on the floor of the amp where the 6/32 machine screw went thru.
To me this item being missing means this amp could have big trouble in the output stage, but fear not as we can walk you through the test out steps needed to bring it back to life once again!
vivalaanalog Messages: 6 Registered: September 2011 Location: NE
Junior Member
Thanks for the swift response guys well thats a bummer if its missing parts, but like you said i you cant beat the price. its the two black wires. i will take some pictures of inside and post them up later this evening.
Well we don't know if it's missing parts yet, that's where the photos will help. Usually the black wires are the ones that connect to the power switch and fuse.
As usual Pleat is right, the thermal cutoff switch has been removed. Someone has also added an inline fuse holder to replace the soldered in fuse. The caps have probably been replaced, and the reverb tank normally is mounted to two aluminum tubes that span the width of the chassis.
The cutoff switch is there to shut off the power to the amp if the output transistors reach a temperature that may cause them damage. I believe that the original ones were rated for 180F degrees or so.
For testing purposes the two wires that you are holding in the one photo can be connected together, to see if the amp is otherwise in working condition. These wires carry the full 120 volt ac line, so they must be handled carefully and should be taped off to prevent any accidental shocks or shorts.
I don't know what your skill level is, so I will warn you that there are voltages inside this amp that can kill you. If you are not certain how to go about these repairs, then don't. Get help from someone that is qualified.
vivalaanalog Messages: 6 Registered: September 2011 Location: NE
Junior Member
thanks so much for the the help! although i consider myself novice at best, i understand the risks involved and always take proper measures to insure my safety by discharging all components that hold a charge after its been unplugged. any suggestions on a replacement thermal cut off? also is there any where to find a replacement reverb tank? you guys are awesome and i really appreciate the help you have given.
vivalaanalog Messages: 6 Registered: September 2011 Location: NE
Junior Member
i think i may have found the old one floating around inside of it! but one of the leads is busted off, is it still usable? or should i just order a new one?
stevem Messages: 4733 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
Senior Member
The new thermal breaker you buy should be rated for a temp of 185, but one thing a did notice that I had not before last night is that my K100-2 head does not,nor did it ever have a thermal breaker!
I need to look at all of my K100 schematics and see if that whole line of amps ever even had the breakers, if I where to guess at this I think they show up in the K150 plexi face combo amps that are built like the later metal face k150s with a choke transformer in the power supply.
At any rate it certainly would not hurt to install one if you do not mind the work it would take.
You will also need to place a dab of silicone dielectric grease between the two mounting surfaces of the breaker. this stuff can be had in tubes from auto parts stores or electronic supply stores.