Folks - I have a K300 PA head that I am working on.........in reading through some old posts, I found some information on replacing the old 2-prong "shocker" power cord on a PA head and I read this in an old post (by chicagobill):
"Clean the pots and jacks, and clean and tighten the Molex plugs that connect the different boards. Check the Power and Polarity switches to see if the plastic mounting sleeves are cracked. And install a new 3 wire grounded power cord and remove the ground cap from the polarity switch."
Can anyone please comment on how this is done? How do I locate this cap? I have installed a new/grounded 3-wire cord and did not remove anything like is described........am I possibly damaging the head running it like this?
In theory, the cap can stay in place with no harm being done if the cap is in good condition and the amp is plugged into a correctly wired three prong outlet.
That being said, because it does not meet modern codes, some people on the interwebs will get their shorts in a bunch if you leave it in place. So if you should want to remove it, it will be connected directly to the back of the polarity switch on the front panel. They usually are dark blue in color and the second side of the cap will connect with a screw terminal to the front panel as a ground connection.
The switches are fairly fragile, so I recommend that you clip it out instead of trying to unsolder it. Oh yes, the polarity switch is wired directly to the ac line, so be certain that the amp is unplugged if you do clip off the cap.
stevem Messages: 4733 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
Senior Member
I leave the cap in when doing the mod as long as the cap is rated for 400 volts or better which it needs to be!
I have seen where on some amps the designer lost focus and speced a 150 or 200 volt cap and that can and will fail in time, alot of times if the amp was played on a outside gig and run off a genorator that had poor voltage regulation,or during a lighting storm hit.
This due to the fact that AC wall voltage peak is over 300 volts, what we normally speak of as the 115 to 120 volts from the wall outlet is just the RMS voltage!
I leave the cap in when doing the mod as long as the cap is rated for 400 volts or better which it needs to be!
I have seen where on some amps the designer lost focus and speced a 150 or 200 volt cap and that can and will fail in time, alot of times if the amp was played on a outside gig and run off a genorator that had poor voltage regulation,or during a lighting storm hit.
This due to the fact that AC wall voltage peak is over 300 volts, what we normally speak of as the 115 to 120 volts from the wall outlet is just the RMS voltage!
stevem - the ident info on the cap I clipped out is: PAKTRON .022 +/-20% 150vac MVL. Based on your comments, this cap was NOT rated high enough for its intended purpose.
The cap that you removed was original to the amp and was rated correctly at 150v AC.
Before there were caps designed for this purpose, companies used caps that were normally rated for dc only. These caps were usually 400-600 volt caps. If you open up a typical vintage Fender amp, this is what you'll find.