pleat Messages: 1452 Registered: June 2004 Location: Belding, Mi
Senior Member
Most all kustoms were built with 3/4" plywood. In the latter years of the slant metal face K250 series, you may find partcile or pressed wood in place of the plywood.
As far as dimensions, you can count the number of T&R to get heights and widths figuring 2" for each T&R will get you close.
pleat
stevem Messages: 4733 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
Senior Member
You should also note that with the start of the K250 heads in 1971 the 2-15" cabinets when from being tapered top to bottom like for the K200 models, to straight face, as in no taper.
This added internal cabinet volume helped out for Bass guitar usage on the low E string.
Also to be noted in that even with this internal volume increase the cabinet needs more port area for Bass than the two round ports provide.
In this light if you do go foward and build a cabinet I would add a 2" slot port on the bottom of the baffle.
The port width should end 1 1/2" from each side of the baffle board.
The overall cabinet should be 2" taller to get this right.
Thanks for the info guys. I am the proud owner of a 250-4, matching 2x15" Cab and a 200 PA Head and I have a new 2x15 on the way.
I like that these cabs are smaller and lighter than a lot of the modern 2x15" cabs. I was kicking around the idea of building a clone of the cab to take to shows and not have to worry about beating up my tuck and rolls. Just wanted to get some info and start thinking about it.
stevem Messages: 4733 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
Senior Member
A good way to lighten up any cab is to use one of the new Neomag type drivers, the only tuff pill to swallow is that the on average 60 to 80 bucks more than a ciramic magnet driver.