stevem Messages: 4728 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
Senior Member
Back in the day Kustom made a 3-8"/ 2-10"" driver cabinet (you can view this in the sites Literature section) that was the same a the PA cabinets, but had a 50 watt rms amp in that was intended to be used as a side fill monitor and the rca jack fed the monitor.
This jack can also power a recorder which was the intension of the jack in the earlier plexi face amps.
In the plexi face amps this jack could output as much as 5 volts, but I have never checked how much it pumps out in the K300 head!
Thanks for getting back to me on this. I know we have talked in the past about connecting amps together to get me more power, speakers whatever and you had mentioned running a line from this connection to my K200 head to power the monitors. Will this be a "hot" signal to the amp or just like a signal from a guitar or mic? Was wondering if I would need an L-pad to turn the signal down and not blow the K200 pre-amp. I am running a tape deck straight into one of the inputs on the K200 and it runs so hot that I can't turn the volume past one......and is really loud past that point so I don't go past the one mark for fear of blowing something besides my ear drums. Appreciate everything as usual. What kind of beer do you drink with your turkey?
stevem Messages: 4728 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
Senior Member
If you simply take the output from the rca on the k300 and run in into the rca on the rear of the k200 all should be fine!
If no signal is going into a channel on the k200 then this rca Jack will act like a input to the k200s power amp.
I am not picky about the beer, just how the Turkey is prepared!
So what's up with the cassette deck.....not a boom box, part of a stereo unit. Is the signal just too hot for the amp and would putting an L-pad protect my amp head?
Turkey is turkey so long as its cooked.....smoked, fried or whatever. BRING IT ON!
stevem Messages: 4728 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
Senior Member
L pads are for attenuation speaker level to speaker level and although it may work a far cheaper thing to do to get the signal level down to -10 db for that home recording unit would be to make a simple one resistor attenuator.
Get yourself a 3300 ohm or so resistor and place it in series from hot to hot(tip to tip) then run the ground to ground and your done.
A half watt value resistor will be fine!
With the mountains of home brewed stuff out there I can not understand why there is not a Turkey flavored Beer yet!
Thanks for the info......will try the resistor thing.
Your not going to believe this, but I guess there IS a bacon flavor beer out there. Just a matter of time before they make a turkey flavored one as well. Sorry but beer should taste like beer.....not barn yard animals! Remember Olympia Beer? Guy in college always said it tasted like horse pee......I'll have to take his work on that one since I have no first hand knowledge of that one......lol
stevem Messages: 4728 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
Senior Member
I gave you some wrong info in my posting yesterday, you will need between a 8 meg ohm and a 10 meg ohm resistor to attenuate the potential 150 watt output of the k300 head down to -10 for recording use, the 3300 ohm resistor is only good for about a 4 to 5 watt amp.
To make the thing adjustable you might as well order up a 10 meg ohm pot and wire it up as a rheostat and then you can trim things off nice!
Thanks for the update and right part.......what are your thoughts about wiring a meter with this pot? Would be nice to be able to gauge the signal strength going into the amp verses waiting for distortion out of the speakers.
stevem Messages: 4728 Registered: June 2004 Location: NY
Senior Member
If you have or get a Cheap digital voltmeter just set it for AC volts and look for a Voltage level of .150 volt s (150 MV) that is - 10 db and that will work fine for driving another amp right to its input, or the recorder.
Hook it up across the hot and shield .
Thanks again......I'm going to make a box that will have the pot in it and also wire a meter in series like you said and have an input and an output jack on it so I can monitor and set the level of the signal. With everything being self contained, will look more like a professional job.....similar to the SWR meters that you used to put on your CB radio's to show you signal strength. Surprised that someone doesn't offer this already or at least in a kit form.