Thank you! I will check that out. It's difficult to solder the three conductor input wire back on to the board because the wire is so short but I'll do it because it will be much easier and smarter than blindly changing the IC.
Last night I totally got the channel labeled "2" working full tilt. No more fade out of the bass after running for a couple of minutes. I played it for a long time and it just sounds fantastic. You guys were right: I found one capacitor completely popped loose on one end and barely hanging by the other .. and in fact it fell completely out by the time I got the board out. And I found another cap with a cold solder joint on one end .. visibly cold.
Before putting that board back in I completely cleaned the amp inside and out. Now it looks like a new amp inside! If I figure out how to post pictures I'll share some photos.
I don't see any issues with any of the Molex connectors but I definitely had trouble with those capacitors, so if problems with board "2" can affect board "1" then I will definitely solder board "1" back in and try it again before blindly replacing that IC.
Thank you all for helping me fix this amp! Again, I've never had one of these and I'm in love with the tone. If I get board "1" working I will:
- replace the 2-prong cord with a 20' 3-prong cord.
- probably install a panel mount fuse holder on back. There is currently an inline fuseholder inside and it's installed in such a way that it's hard to believe it's original.
- find out about the two front panel switches .. are they supposed to light up? Mine don't. This should be visible on the schematic .. I'll check that as soon as I send this post.