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Re: Tantalum Capacitors sub w/ Aluminum Electrolytics? [message #26438 is a reply to message #26427] Wed, 13 December 2017 12:46 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
stevem is currently offline  stevem
Messages: 4733
Registered: June 2004
Location: NY
Senior Member
When you bring these amps up slow on a Vriac they will put D.C on the output at a certain voltage level until the line voltage gets High enough!

If the amp came to you with its solder in 3 amp fuse still intact I would just plug it straight in and turn it on with only a volt meter hooked up across its output and then see what you see!

If your looking at voltages on Kustom schematics please note the they are taken with all the controls up full and no load hooked up to the output.

Another thing to confirm on these amps if they have seen some work is that the leads on the bias tracking diode on the output heat sink are intact on both sides and the the diode is in its clip , but not so far in its clip that the leads may short to it.

I have also found quite a few shorted Tantalum caps by just scanning them with a thermal gun as they do get much hotter then the surrounding circuit, of course if they are just getting leaky then a ESR meter is your best bet.

In regards to the output driver board in these amps they have so few caps that if I have the board off of the rear wall of the amp I just shot gun it and change them all.

[Updated on: Wed, 13 December 2017 12:54]

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